Repairing a Maxwell-Nilsson VR-700 windlass Part 2: Removal

So the Maxwell Nilsson VR-700 was repaired rather painlessly including very little pain to my wallet. For about six bucks of square brass key stock I could now lift BIANKA's anchor with the push of a button and also have a lifetime of spare key stock to boot. But, the joy did not last long. I went forward one day to lift the anchor and the Gypsy moved slightly and then stopped. I could still hear the motor below deck turning. This was not good news.
I proceeded to try and find the cause. I pulled off the upper drum and could see that both the chain Gypsy and the shaft were not spinning under load. This could only mean a problem in the gear box below deck. How did this happen? It could have been a clumsy crew member who stepped on one of the deck mounted windlass switches after the chain had been secured to the Sampson Post and because I might have forgotten to switch off the windlass circuit breaker. I know better to NEVER step on these switches but, for the ocassional crew it is an easy thing to forget. Whatever the reason the windlass will have to come out and that can not happen until the end of the season. Until then it's heave away and haul away on the anchor chain. But, it actually got even worse. Sometime that summer BIANKA was hit by lightning directly or by a side strike. The hit did a little damage taking out the heavy duty Pro Mariner battery charger and a few other electrical items. But, it also affected the windlass so that it only operated in one direction. True to Murphy's law of the sea of course that would be in lowering the anchor not raising it. So there are two problems that need to be addressed.


NOTE: BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY REMOVAL AND REPAIR ON AN ELECTRIC WINDLASS MAKE SURE THAT ALL POWER TO THE WINDLASS AND IT'S CONTROL CIRCUITRY IS OFF!


The first issue I had was how to drop the motor and gearbox. I first tried to turn the bolts on the deck plate of the windlass.

I soon realized that they were not going to budge. So it was time to squeeze my six foot two frame into the chain locker. I laid down some old water skiers life jackets that were on board on top of the chain and laid down on my back to look at how to remove the windlass. Strangely I found that being in the chain locker to be somewhat womb-like and cozy. Even conducive to closing ones eyes and taking a nap. But, I had work to do and getting the windlass out was job one. Below is a photo of the VR-700 windlass mounted to the deck. In the background are some of the wiring for the windlass and solenoids that control it's operation.

I don't know whose idea it was to install all this wiring inside the chain locker but, I plan on changing it in the future. I understand the windlass needs to be mounted here but, to have all this other wiring and control relays in there is asking for trouble. The chain locker can be a rather wet and damp environment. Just the kind of conditions for corrosion to take hold as you can see by the bluish hue of the bolts holding the deck deck plate for the windlass in the photo above.

Looking up at the bottom of the windlass I saw three bolts and a mysterious grease spot. Which is a very important clue to maintenance of this windlass and others of a similar design. Below is a what the windlass looks like from below:

I thought there might be a bolt missing and that is why grease was leaking from gear box via the hole. But, I would later find out why the grease was there. Back to removing the windlass. The two electrical lugs on top of the motor were disconnected. Then it was rather easy procedure. Loosening and removing the three bolts on the bottom of the gear box and then sliding the motor and gearbox assembly downward (with a little nudging/tapping from above) it slid out as one assembly.

NOTE: WINDLASSES ARE HEAVY AND CAUTION SHOULD BE EXERCISED WHEN REMOVING THEM. DO NOT PLACE ANY PART OF YOUR BODY UNDERNEATH IT WHEN YOU ARE REMOVING IT. IT CAN DROP SUDDENLY AND INJURE YOU IF YOU ARE NOT CAREFUL.

Below is a photo of the windlass removed from the boat with the shaft.

Now it's time to figure out what the problems are and how to repair them.

WINDLASS REPAIR PART 1

WINDLASS REPAIR PART 3

WINDLASS REPAIR PART 4