TIPS FOR THE GALLEY: Cooking Pasta

One of the staples I carry on board when cruising is various forms of pasta. I enjoy an occasional meal of pasta usually with my own homemade sauce. Problem with cooking pasta on board is the instructions say to start out with a big pot of boiling water. Something like four or five quarts. Water on board is precious commodity especially if you don't have a water maker. So is the fuel needed to boil the water. I came across this video which allows one to make pasta using only a little bit of water and fuel compared to doing according to the instructions on the box. Looks like a great technique to use on the boat:

RETHINKING PROPANE: The Final Piece

I've finished with the dismantling of the Hillerange stovetop and oven. I've also removed the Paloma on demand water heater. The remaining piece I need to remove from the twenty thee year old propane system resides in the propane locker. It is the gauge, regulator and solenoid assembly that connect to the propane storage tank in the propane locker to the hose that enters the cabin:

 These will be the final pieces of the old propane system that I will remove from the boat. The assembly is not that big or heavy but, it was somewhat of an energy hog when in operation. As I checked out in a previous post.   Gas flow required that the 12 volt solenoid be energized and used over one amp when in operation. The ability to cook on the Hillerange Seward stove or use the hot water heater depended on having a working 12 volt battery bank.  In the process of simplifying the propane system I have also created a more reliable system with which to cook. One not dependent on other boat systems working. That's a good thing.

UNPLANNED BENEFITS OF PROJECTS

After removing the twenty three year old Paloma water heater as part of my rethinking propane project. I opened up a lot of space for use. Looking at the cabinet area where it once resided. I saw an opportunity to move over the Brita water filter over into the water heater space.

If it would fit in the space behind the Paloma access door.

My first attempt was a no go. The cabinet door that help hide the heater would not allow the Brita water filter to fit. So I removed the door which was held on by hinges attached with square drive screws. Using one of the square drive screwdrivers I carry on board it was a quick job to remove the door.

Success! The Brita Water Filter would  fit in the space. But, first I had to add another shelf in the back of the cabinet to support the rear of the water filter:

Once this was done I was able to fit  the Brita right into the space

 and it looked like it was planned that way. But, the reality was it's just an unplanned outcome of my rethinking propane project. Another benefit of the move was the outlet water valve for the Brita is now over the sink instead of the counter. So any unplanned drips do not have to be wiped up.

RETHINKING PROPANE: Removing the Paloma Hot Water Heater

After dismantling the Hillerange Stove and adapting it to my new cooking burner. My attention turned to the Paloma on demand hot water heater. It was still in good shape and working but, since I no longer wanted to rely on a 22 year old propane hose snaking below the cabin sole to deliver propane gas to it and the stove. So it was time to remove it.

I had not actually used it for hot water in about two or three years preferring to take Joy showers off the stern or cockpit showers using a solar shower bag. Though it was a reliable provider of hot water when I was working and living on board in New York City back in the mid 1990's to 2001. I'd use it take a shower everyday before heading off to a midnight shift keeping electrons flowing through the wires in midtown Manhattan. Now that I am living on board only in warmer seasons and in more secluded locations I  won't miss the unit.

The Paloma water heater on BIANKA was installed behind a custom built cabinet with some extra joinery to hide the gas supply line, water hoses and also an AC line for a microwave used by a previous owner located in another cubby.

Removing the wood covers showed the various hoses connecting up to the unit:

Two hand screws on the bottom sides of the heater allowed the cover to be removed:

It then was pretty easy to access the water heater connections and remove them:

The gas supply and water hoses came off pretty easy:

Two bolts and nuts held the bottom bracket of the heater to the bulkhead:

A single bolt and nut held a bracket on the upper part of the heater to the bulkhead. This was more difficult to access. So I went around the back and just loosened the screw until the nut fell off. I was then able with a little wriggling to remove the water heater from behind the cabinet:

With the Paloma water heater removed a nice amount of storage space was opened up:

I'm already planning on adding another spice rack below the cabinet. I'll see what else I can fit into the area left by the removal of of the Paloma. Always good to have more storage space on board.

RETHINKING PROPANE: Dismantling the Hillerange Seaward Stove Part Four

After the finishing clearing out the oven box I returned to the top of the stove where I will use the Coleman Burner Stove for my primary cooking.

 Now that the Hillerange burners and gas valves were removed I need to do a good cleaning of the basin that will contain the burner. I used my one gallon wet/dry vac to remove what I could. But, there was still some greasy and rust spots that needed particular attention:

 I used some white vinegar and baking soda, Simple Green a stainless steel brush and a  DBTech Multi-Purpose Pressurized Steam Cleaner.

The steam clearer really helps to get at the grease and grime that found  it's way into the crevices over two decades of cooking. It also helps to remove rust spots. It also helps to sterilize surfaces. It's a handy thing to have around for a job like this. A small  Stainless Steel Brush also came in handy along with the steam in cleaning some of the stoves rusted metal and stainless steel surface:

I also needed to remove a few things left over on top of the stove. One was the leftover piece of the burner gas manifold bracket that I had to cut using a Dremel tool with a cut off blade:

Using a small vise grip this was easily removed with the screw still firmly attached:

I also used the Dremel Tool with a cutoff blade to cut off the stainless steel feed tubes that previously fed the pilot light and oven burner:

Here is the before view afterI removed the gas manifold, burners and gas valves but, had not yet cleaned things up. You can see some of the  the rust where the iron burner brackets were screwed into the stainless steel surface and the gas feed tubes on the right :

Here is the after photo:

That's much better. I can now put the Coleman burner in it's proper place on top of the cleaned stove top. I'm pretty happy with the transformation. I've created more storage for my pots and pans in the oven box. Plus, I still have a well gimbaled burner with which to cook on :

So one project is out of the way. Next I'll move on to the next project which is  remove the hot water heater as I continue to rethink propane on board and how I use it.

RETHINKING PROPANE: Dismantling the Hillerange Seaward Stove Part Three

I was away from the boat for two weeks as work got in the way once again. But, then it will allow me to pay the boatyard for dropping the morning back in the water. So it is a trade off. When I got back on board I continued on the propane project which entails partially dismantling the Hillerange Seward Stove that has been on board since 1986. Due to corrosion in the burner area and the expense of rebuilding it I decided to abandon it's use as a stove and oven and use alternative cooking plans. I was able to remove most of the burner, controls and manifold on my last visit to the boat. On this visit I planned to take a look at the oven and see what I could remove there. Since I've owned BIANKA since 1995 I think I've used the oven twice. Frankly, trying to start it was always difficult and somewhat scary. Which is why I won't miss it much. But, I did store some cooking items inside of it as shown below:

   

Though they were just covers and bowls and oven pans in the limited space available. So since I no longer  plan on using the oven I thought it would be good to remove the burner and whatever else I could take off the boat. First I removed all the "stuff" that was stored in the oven:

The area needs a good cleaning and there is some rust that needs to taken care of. First thing was remove the oven tray. I found this was just held in place by two screws located in the back of the oven:

Once the tray is removed I had easy access to oven burner:

A screw on the left side holds it in place:

Over on the right side is a nut that connects the pilot light to it's stainless steel feed pipe securing the right side:

Once the screw on the left side and the pilot feed nut are removed the whole burner assembly is easily removed:

Removing the oven tray and oven burner created a much bigger storage area in the now unused oven space:

It needs a good cleanup  and some rust removal and I think I'll do some re painting in the future. But, I am happy with that the space that opened up by removing the burner:

I was now able to store all of the pots and pans I use on board in the oven area. Including my cast iron frying pan and four quart pressure cooker.  I still need to remove some of the oven pans which I will no longer use too. With the unused oven burner parts removed and the additional storage space created, I'll turn my attention to cleaning up the top burner area.

RETHINKING PROPANE USE ON BOARD: Dismantling the Hillerange Stove Part Two

NOTE: BEFORE WORKING ON ANY PROPANE SYSTEM MAKE SURE THE PROPANE TANK VALVE IS CLOSED AND THE SUPPLY LINES/HOSE ARE DISCONNECTED FROM THE TANK.

 A week after spraying some PB Blaster on the screws and flanges. I was back on board hoping it had done a good job penetrating the dissimilar screw and manifold flanges.  It worked pretty well on the twenty seven year old stove. I was able to remove all the burners easily: with no problem even though the flanges were pretty rusted:

But other items like the Gas manifold pipe and the oven gas valve each had one of the stainless steel screws that would not budge. Here a photo of the items I wanted to remove from the stove top as I would no longer be using them:

After removing the burners I started on removing the Gas Manifold. Because one of the screws on one flange did not budge I used a Dremel Tool with a reinforced cutting disk to cut through the flange:

Before continuing I also disconnected the hose that connects up to the manifold using a 17 mm wrench at the back of the stove:

 Even with those steps it still required a little extra "persuasion" to fully remove the manifold:

The last item I needed to remove was the Gas Valve which also had one screw that was bonded to the unit. But, I was able to pry it up easy enough and remove the valve.

I was amazed at the amount of crumbs located underneath the valve. But, I guess after over a quarter century of cooking things will accumulate:

 A quick vacuum took care of most of it. With the burners and manifold finally removed from the stove:

I was able to do a quick check to see if the  Coleman PowerPack 1-Burner Stove I planned to use from now for cooking would fit on top of the now partially dismantled stove:

Success! I was also able to close the sliding counter over it. So now all I need to do is a good cleanup of the remaining grime and then move onto the oven area of the stove to see what I can remove there.

 DISMANTLING THE HILLERANGE STOVE PART THREE CLICK HERE 

DISMANTLING THE HILLERANGE STOVE PART ONE CLICK HERE