GOING ELECTRIC PART 14: Before and after batteries

Now that the motor is installed it's time to move on toward the next phase of the electrification project which is installing the batteries. But, first let's take a before and after look at where we are:

BEFORE:

AND AFTER

Now that's so much better. That's the installed motor in the foreground and lot's of room aft. Of course you can't tell in the photo above but, the area not only looks clean but, smells clean now that the last traces of diesel and oil have been removed. At this point I would have liked to repaint the area a nice white color. But, it is mid June and I have to make a 200 mile trip to Newport Rhode Island starting in about two weeks to attend the Nonsuch Rendezvous. So there is not a lot of time to finish the electrification project, get launched and do some shakedown cruises. So I am skipping the painting. It's really not a critical thing to do and besides most of the area shown will be covered by the battery installation. I've not removed the existing stringers because they are integral part of the hull and removing them I feel would make the area somewhat weaker. But the stringers also prevent me from installing the size batteries I wanted. So I will use the stringers to my advantage along with some other existing items. I decided to build a battery platform on top of them. Here is where I began:

As the above photo shows I first installed a strip of wood that was level with the top of the stringers. This will help support that end of the battery platform. Note: This is secured to the area where the noise foam was previously installed and is one of the reasons why I removed the foam. Also by using a battery platform I am also raising them over the level of the raw water sea cock. Which I am keeping because I may use it as part of a raw water washdown system in the future. Raising the batteries will also keep them dry and easier to access for maintenance.

I next move on the the stringers which need to be prepped before installing the battery platform.

Here I filled the holes and cut outs where the diesel engine brackets were once installed. This was done to seal the grain and strengthen the area.

I then moved on to the platform which was made in two pieces so that I could fit them through the hatches. First I installed some strips of woods to serve as braces on the backside of the platform pieces.
Now that the braces have been installed it's time see how the platform fits.

Not bad. For the battery platform I used scrap pieces of wood I had on hand. The front section is pine the aft section is some marine plywood. Before installing the plywood I put on a couple of coats of West System Epoxy to help seal it. Also notice the cut out at the rear that allows access to the sea raw water sea cock. I am happy with the fit next I will secure the platform.

PREVIOUS GOING ELECTRIC POST
NEXT GOING ELECTRIC POST

GOING ELECTRIC PART 15: Securing the battery platform

The battery platform is already pretty secure for lateral movement with the braces and also being butted up against wood bulkheads on both sides. I also added a strip of wood to the forward edge and side as an extra precaution to prevent the battery from sliding. Especially onto the motor. Before I secure the platform to the stringers I need to figure out how I will layout the batteries. For this I cut some cardboard pieces the same size as the 8A4D batteries and played with their layout on the platform.

The advantage of placing the batteries in the location where the engine was is that the trim of the boat in the water should be about the same and also keep the wire runs as short as possible. Using cardboard cutouts of the same dimensions as the 8A4D AGM batteries I will be ordering I decided on the arrangement above. This seemed to be the best arrangement for maintenance and weight distribution and wire runs. The 8A4D batteries weigh 129 lbs each which after removing the 424 pound Westerbeke 27, starting battery, diesel fuel and associated components probably gives a slight weight advantage to the electric propulsion system. One of the reasons I choose to place the battery on the left side in the above photo is to provide the proper balance for weight distribution. Next to that battery is the now empty diesel fuel tank. So this battery will help provide the needed weight on the starboard side to balance out missing weight of the diesel fuel and keep the trim of the boat about the same.

The above photo shows how I secured the battery platform to the stringers. I used stainless steel lag bolts and washers. I drilled pilot holes and simply screwed the lag bolts into the stringers. You can see I made an outline of the stringers on the platform to make it easier to find the center to place the lag screws.

GOING ELECTRIC TIP: When working in confined areas like this it is useful to have a small fan circulating air to keep you comfortable while working.

With the platform now securely installed and the battery layout planned the next step is to install the batteries.

PREVIOUS GOING ELECTRIC POST
NEXT GOING ELECTRIC POST

GOING ELECTRIC PART 16: BATTERY SNAFU

Well, I am finally seeing light at the end of the tunnel. Good thing too. As I have just three weeks to finish the electrification project, launch, check things out and head off on the two hundred mile cruise to Newport in early July. Now that I have seen how the layout for the batteries will work it's time to order the batteries. I choose MK 8A4D batteries for their capacity and size. After doing some online searches I found a reasonable source with free shipping. I placed my order and was told I would have my batteries in few days. Everything is looking good.
On the day the batteries arrived my heart sank. I looked a the pallet of batteries being off loaded off of the truck and was surprised at how big they looked compared to my cardboard models. A quick look at the truck driver manifest invoice showed the problem. The batteries being delivered were 8A8D AGM batteries not the 8A4D AGM batteries I expected. I asked the truck driver if he could take them back he said no that had to be arraigned separately. So I took the delivery which also contained two new 12 volt Gel batteries for the house bank which were the correct size.
When I looked at the confirmation invoice sent by the battery seller it did indeed show that the order was for four 8A8D batteries. Even though I must looked at this invoice at least three times I did not pick up on the error.
I tried to see if it might be possible to fit the larger 8A8D batteries in the same space. It might have worked but, would have been tight and since they were 30 lbs heavier each would have been harder for me to handle by myself. Not to mention adding another 120 pounds of weight to the boat.
So after ultimately realizing it was my mistake for not picking the error up sooner I arranged for the proper batteries to be sent. It would take another week for the right batteries to be delivered and would ultimately cost me another $220 to send the first batteries back. An expensive mistake to be sure.

MIKE'S GOING ELECTRIC TIP: Make really sure the batteries you want are the batteries you are going to get. Double and triple check all your invoices very carefully before hundreds of pounds of batteries are dropped on your doorstep.

PREVIOUS GOING ELECTRIC POST
NEXT GOING ELECTRIC POST

GOING ELECTRIC PART 17: INSTALLING THE BATTERIES

Another 1/4 ton pallet of batteries arrived at the house. The correct 8A4D size this time and the wrong larger 8A8D batteries have been picked up and returned to the manufacturer for a credit. Now it's time to move on to another milestone in the electrification of BIANKA. Installing the batteries. The batteries on an electrically propelled boat are the fuel tank that hold the fuel (electric potential) that powers the motor. It's pretty important function. So it makes sense that this part of the system and it's installation be thought out pretty carefully. I've already decided on the battery layout as shown in GOING ELECTRIC PART 15. Now it's time to install the real ones.

I tried to think about not just installing the batteries now but, also future installations and maintenance of the system. Such as being on a cruise and needing to replace the batteries. I am hoping to get at least five to ten years out of the batteries. Their life is yet to be determined. I am hoping new battery technologies will also be tested and proven in the future. Which is also something that an electrically propelled boat can take advantage of. But that is the future. The problem now is how I can install and maneuver the four 130 pound batteries into the hold. It's a lot of weight to be lifting and dropping into the hold and each can cause a lot of damaged to a person or boat if it drops. I then discovered this handy little piece of technology The Forespar Nova Lift:



This solved my battery installation problem. It has a capacity of 220 lbs plenty of safety margin for loading the 130 pound batteries. It could also be used to lift other items like an outboard motor or even a person who needs to be rescued from the water. I was so excited about installing the batteries I forgot to take photo of the actual above deck process using the Nova Lift. But, these photo "simulations" will give you a good idea of what the process looked like using the Nova Lift:




I laid a small 12 inch wide plank below the hatch so I could slide the battery onto the battery platform. This was very helpful.
I also came across something at a surplus electronics website that proved to be useful:
A pair of industrial rollers. They were just the thing to help maneuver the hefty AGM butteries once they were in the confined space below deck. Below is a photo of the first battery installed and the second one is on the plank on the way in.

Notice the small crowbar this was helpful in lifting and positioning the batteries into the correct location. The white grate items on the battery platform are a product called DRI DEK. It is made for decks and floors but, I am using pieces of it here for underneath the batteries. It serves three purposes: 1) It raises the batteries over the heads of the lag bolts securing the battery platform. 2) It provides an airspace helping to keep the batteries cooler and dry. 3) It helps keep the batteries from sliding on the platform. Also note the battery tie down straps for the same purpose.
With the battery installation completed the heavy work is done and I'm moving rapidly toward completion of the electrification of the BIANKA.

PREVIOUS GOING ELECTRIC POST
NEXT GOING ELECTRIC POST

GOING ELECTRIC PART 18: Tools of the electric sailor.

The motor is in place. The batteries are in place. Now comes the time where buying the ASMO MARINE THOOSA 9000 system really comes in handy. One of the reasons I went with the ASMO system was that it is relatively turn key product. Which is good because I am fast approaching deadlines to head off to a rendevous in Newport Rhode Island.

The Thoosa 9000 system provided by NGC Marine provided a controller that was prewired with about 15 feet of 2 AWG guage battery wires. They also provide an industrial type of throttle control and optional battery monitor both prewired with connectors that simply plug into the controller.

The only thing I need to do is to run the motor and battery cables cut them to length and put connectors on them and also interconnect the batteries to make the 48 volt bank. In order to do this properly I needed to buy two tools I did not already have:

The photo above shows a nasty looking piece of technology called the CACTUS CC-325 ratchting cable cutter. It cuts the big 2 AWG cables nice and flush and does it very easy too. If you are going electric it is a good thing to have onboard. You never know when you might have to replace a jumper between batteries or replace a connector. Another item you should buy and have available is this:

An industrial heavy duty crimper. This is needed to make secure crimps on the battery and motor cable lugs. Now the only thing remaining to do is to mount the controller and wire it to the battery bank and motor. Then plug in the throttle control, key switch and battery monitor and BIANKA will become the world's first electric Nonsuch 30.
PREVIOUS GOING ELECTRIC POST
NEXT GOING ELECTRIC POST

GOING ELECTRIC PART 19: WHAT'S IN THE BOX

So now I've got the battery cables and the motor all connected and ready to go. It's time to mount the controller box. But, first let's take a quick look inside.


It is a pretty robust layout. All the components mount on a thick piece of aluminum that serves as a heat sink for the all important motor controller. To me things are not that complicated and as I have an electronics background it seems it will be much easier to troubleshoot than all the things that can go wrong with a diesel engine. In fact the electric motor on board could be run directly from the battery if needed avoiding the entire controller box if I had to. But, at some loss of efficiency and speed control. I am beginning to appreciate the simplicity of electric propulsion over the conventional diesel engine that it replaced. When you think about it the diesels on board many boats are much more complicated the an electric propulsion system like the Thoosa 9000. Here is exhibit A:


This is the back of a typical diesel control panel in the cockpit. All these wires and connections not to mention the connections at the other end on the engine can make trouble shooting somewhat of a challenge compared to the single box controller of an electric propulsion system like ASMO's. In addition most diesel engines on board sailboats of a certain size also use electric motors at least to get them started. This adds additional complexity to the fuel and mechanical systems already inherent in ICE propulsion. Think of electric propulsion just hooking up the diesel starter motor to the prop and eliminating the diesel altogether and you get the idea of how simple the system is. Going to electric propulsion also eliminates all the problems with pumps (fuel, antifreeze and water) and the hoses that connect to them. Making electric propulsion even simpler. I like that a lot!

PREVIOUS GOING ELECTRIC POST
NEXT GOING ELECTRIC POST

GOING ELECTRIC PART 20: THE FINAL CONNECTIONS

Well it's time to mount the controller and make the finals connections. This is where the going with the ASMO MARINE THOOSA 9000 really paid off. As it is really a plug and play. Or I should say plug and propel system. But, first mounting the controller. I choose the location that was previously occupied by components of the Fridgoboat refrigeration systems and the antifreeze tank of the Westerbeke Diesel. Here is the before photo:
And below is the after photo with the controller and battery charger installed in the same area:

This location really worked out well. It is located close to the battery bank making for a short cable run. Is easily accessible from a maintenance standpoint and from the cockpit. So that the master switch located on the controller is easy to reach. One detail I should mention in mounting the controller is I used the mounting nut to provide an space of about a quarter inch between the back of the controller and the bulkhead it is mounted to. This was to help the aluminum heat sink of the controller to dissipate the heat more rapidly. Here is a detailed photo of the mounting arrangement on one of the four mounts:
With the controller mounted the only thing left is to plug in the cables. The ASMO MARINE controller comes prewired with the battery and motor cables. It also uses a combination Anderson and LEMO connectors for battery charger, throttle, battery monitor and key switch. These simply plugged into the labeled jacks on the controller as shown below: The only thing left was to mount the throttle. Since time was tight I had to jury rig the throttle which is a pretty industrial affair. It will look better once I make a proper mounting platform for it. But, for now I just ty wrapped it up at the helm where the diesel throttle use to be controlled from. It was ugly but, it worked:
I also made a temporary mount for the battery monitor and key switch and mounted them in the same place where the former diesel motor instrument panel was located. So the entire system is connected the only thing left its to try a test:

And so in June 2008 BIANKA became the world's first electrically propelled Nonsuch 30.

PREVIOUS GOING ELECTRIC POST

Winterlude/Solitude

Well winter has returned this year after we've had several mild ones. Luckily, I was able to leave the bare trees for this little Caye in southern Belize for a few days.

The only inhabitant I could find on this little piece of paradise was this Osprey:

It's just a reminder of the magical places that one can only get to by boat.

New Years Day/Winterhelm

Things were cold and fuzzy on New Years Day. Still the 15 degree temperture did not stop me from going down to the boat and check up on things.

As you can see by the snow piled up by the hatch BIANKA was suffering from a little winterhelm. The only way to correct that is to pull some summer gear off the boat. And head south to a place like this:

Which I plan to do in a few weeks as it is the only fix for winterhelm that I know of.

Winterizing a boat with one gallon of antifreeze

I wandered into the West Marine store to pick up some Starboard to use for making a permanent mount for the Thoosa electric motor throttle control and some propylene glycol antifreeze to winterize the boat. I got a little "sticker shock" from the price of the Propylene glycol antifreeze that is used to winterize on board water and engine systems. Almost five dollars a gallon! When I saw that I was glad I had converted to electric propulsion as I no longer need the extra three or four gallons to winterize the diesel engine. Knowing I had some left over Propylene glycol antifreeze from last year I opted to buy only one gallon. It turns out that is all I needed. This is good, very good. Good for the environment and good for the wallet.
Here is how I did it: